terclim by ICS banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Managing changes in taste: lessons from champagne in britain 1800-1914

Managing changes in taste: lessons from champagne in britain 1800-1914

Abstract

This paper focuses on how taste in wine (and other foods) changes and the implications of this process for producers and merchants.

It draws primarily on the changing taste of and taste for champagne in Britain in the 19th century. Between 1850 and 1880 champagne went from a dosage level of around 20% (20 grams sugar / litre) to 0%. Champagne became the ‘dinner wine of the elite – drunk with roast meat and savoury dishes. Contemporaries accepted that while most people could distinguish the taste of good champagne from that of bad, very few could distinguish very good from good. The shift to dryer champagne was driven less by an appreciation of a changing wine than by social pressure; by the wish of the elite users to differentiate themselves from newly-wealthy middle-class users.

There is plenty of evidence to support the view that the majority of people do not have the tasting skills or sensory sophistication to identify small changes in the taste of a product from one occasion to the next. What they are good at is acquiring the taste for a given substance if and when it becomes necessary.

Using primarily 19th and early 20th century cases my paper will look at how changes in taste are created and how they can be sparked by broader ‘taste regimes’ developing in other areas – such as the 19th century panic over product adulteration. Once sparked how are they fuelled and accelerated by social and media pressure. I will then focus on how producers might and should respond to such changes. When and how fast should they make changes to their style of wine? What are the branding implications of such changes? Changes to product formulation can happen fast; changes to brands generally cannot. Is there a broader positioning opportunity to gain competitive share? If so, the opportunity be maximised by migrating to a new brand? Or is the challenge best met by (temporary) changes to label copy?

Such challenges faced a number of 19th century producers and their successes and failures provide illuminating insights for modern producers and distributors.

DOI:

Publication date: February 11, 2024

Issue: OENO Macrowine 2023

Type: Article

Authors

Graham Harding

Oxford college (UK)

Tags

IVES Conference Series | oeno macrowine 2023 | oeno-macrowine

Citation

Related articles…

THE FLAVANOL PROFILE OF SKIN, SEED, WINES, AND POMACE ARE CHARACTERISTIC OF EACH TYPOLOGY AND CONTRIBUTES TO UNDERSTAND THE FLAVAN- 3-OLS EXTRACTION DURING RED WINEMAKING

Wine flavanols are extracted from grape skin and seeds along red winemaking. Potentially, eight flavan-3-ol subunits may be present as monomers or as tannins constituents, being these catechin, epicathechin, gallocatechin, epigallocatechin end the gallates of the mentioned units. In this work the flavanol profiles of grape skins and seeds before (grapes) and after (pomace) red winemaking were studied together with the one in the corresponding wines. The trials were made over two vintages in Vitis vinifera cv. Tannat, Syrah and Marselan from Uruguay.

TARTARIC STABILIZATION MAY AFFECT THE COLOR AND POLYPHENOLIC COMPOSITION OF TANNAT RED WINES FROM URUGUAY

Tartrate precipitation affects the properties of wines, due to the formation of crystals that cause turbidity, even after being bottled. The forced tartaric stabilization is carried out frequently for young wines, through various physicochemical procedures. The traditional treatment for tartaric stabilization is refrigeration, but it can have a negative effect on wine’s sensory properties, and particularly on the color of red wines. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of different tartaric stabilization options on the color and phenolic composition of Tannat red wines from Uruguay.

‘TROPICAL’ POLYFUNCTIONAL THIOLS AND THEIR ROLE IN AUSTRALIAN RED WINES

Following anecdotal evidence of unwanted ‘tropical’ character in red wines resulting from vineyard interventions and a subsequent yeast trial observing higher ‘red fruit’ character correlated with higher thiol concentrations, the role of polyfunctional thiols in commercial Australian red wines was investigated.
First, trials into the known tropical thiol modulation technique of foliar applications of sulfur and urea were conducted in parallel on Chardonnay and Shiraz.1 The Chardonnay wines showed expected results with elevated concentrations of 3-sulfanylhexanol (3-SH) and 3-sulfanylhexyl acetate (3-SHA), whereas the Shiraz wines lacked 3-SHA. Furthermore, the Shiraz wines were described as ‘drain’ (known as ‘reductive’ aroma character) during sensory evaluation although they did not contain thiols traditionally associated with ‘reductive’ thiols (H2S, methanethiol etc.).

USE OF COLD LIQUID STABULATION AS AN OENOLOGICAL TECHNIQUE IN WHITE WINEMAKING: EFFECTS ON PHENOLIC, AROMATIC AND SENSORIAL COMPOSITION

The application of different winemaking techniques helps to modify the basic parameters, phenolic profile, and aroma components influencing the final wine quality. In particular, pre-fermentative processes aim to increase the extraction and preservation of grape native compounds. Among them, cold liquid stabulation (macération sur bourbes) consists in maintaining the grape juice on its lees, in suspended condition at low temperature (0-8 °C) for a variable time (generally from 7 to 21 days). The aim of this work is to apply the cold liquid stabulation on two Italian white grape varieties, Arneis and Cortese, to evaluate the impact on basic parameters, color, polyphenolic compounds (TPI), antioxidant power (DPPH), total polysaccharides, and free and glycosylated volatile compounds (GC-MS analysis) during and after the process.

THE EFFECT OF PRE-FERMENTATIVE GLYPHOSATE ADDITION ON THE METABOLITE PROFILE OF WINE

The synthetic herbicide glyphosate has been used extensively in viticulture over many decades to combat weeds. Despite this, the possible influence of residual glyphosate on both the alcoholic fermentation of grape juice and the subsequent metabolite profile of wines has not been investigated. In this study, Pinot noir juice supplemented with different concentrations of glyphosate (0 µg L-1, 10 µg L-1 and 1000 µg L-1) was fermented with commercial Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeast strains. Using a combination of analytical methods, 80 metabolites were quantified in the resulting wines.